Heroes, Villains, and National Pride
I walk across the square to the museum of the national hero. Snow falls on its huge green dome. The grand main entrance is locked, so I enter the basement. I pay the foreigner entrance fee and the photography fee, then walk upstairs. The floor is polished white and gray and black marble. A painting stretches to the interior base of the blue and gold dome. It shows the national hero amidst ancient grandeur.
I ascend the blue and white marble staircase to the second floor, pausing to inspect the marble columns that support the roof. Plastic. I inspect more of the museum. More plastic. Only the floor seems solid. But why should this surprise me? I am in one of the more oppressive yet fair-faced countries in the world.
I leave the museum and traipse through snowy streets to the national museum. There, I read more about the national hero. He was a great statesman. He advanced science, technology, and literature. He ruled fairly and justly, loved by all. He was kind and merciful.
Western history had taught me something different. He was one of the most bloodthirsty tyrants to walk the earth. As he conquered much of the known world, he put entire cities to the sword. I pull up Wikipedia on my phone and open his page. I read about his soldiers killing their own wives to meet their leader’s mandated death quota. I read about towers of skulls.
I move on and read about the previous ruler of the modern country, who only recently died. He was a wise ruler, making his country independent of outside powers. He advanced commerce and living standards. His words inscribed on the museum wall inspired even me.
Only later did I learn more about this ruler. Under his leadership, political opponents were assassinated. Dissent was prohibited. Elections were rigged. Suspects were imprisoned and tortured. Demonstrators were blockaded in, then shot by snipers and police, allegedly under his direct orders.
And about the national hero, the government stated, “This dignified and just ruler always dealt with the world with good and kind intentions. And our independent republic, from its very first steps, has announced the very same goals: to conduct itself in the world with kindness and goodwill.”
I shake my head. When will these people stop glorifying villains? When will they stop claiming all the good and denying all the bad. When will they value people more than political power?
But then, I ask myself. When will I stop thinking that my country is the greatest? When will I stop believing that our version of history is the correct one? Can I look through the eyes of a proud Asian country and realize that, while misguided, many of them are sincere in what they believe? Can I admit that I too am misguided at times?